THE WASHINGTON POST – Talk about Asian noodles and you’re going to need to be more specific. In fact, there’s so much variety under this umbrella category it’s unfair to even lump them all together. Flat, round, thick, thin, wheat, rice, buckwheat, starch – there are so many types and so many ways to use them.

“The world of noodles is its own world,” said cookbook author Hetty McKinnon, whose new book, To Asia, With Love, includes a chapter devoted to noodles. “There are lots of different noodles that can satisfy you in different ways.”

Fellow cookbook author Andrea Nguyen, author of Vietnamese Food Any Day, noted that the diversity of Asian noodles is partly attributable to local tastes and regional dishes. Ingredient availability is another factor, such as the prevalence of rice noodles (and paper) in Vietnamese cuisine. And some noodles, due to their shape and makeup, are better suited to some dishes than others, Nguyen said.

If you’re looking for guidance on how to differentiate between the options, and how best to prep and use them, this guide is for you.

First, you need to know where to look. The biggest selection will be on a dry goods aisle, especially at most chain supermarkets. At Asian markets, you’ll need to expand your search depending on what you want. You can find noodles that are sold fresh, in the refrigerated case, including some types of rice, egg, ramen and wheat. In the freezer aisle, you may come across udon. Nguyen said noodles you buy fresh can also be frozen once you get home.

Be sure to read the labels, particularly the ingredient list, and examine what you’re buying. Vermicelli can be used to refer to noodles made with rice or mung bean starch. Glass noodles might describe those made with sweet potato or mung bean starches. Especially in a typical grocery store, labels may be more generic, Nguyen said, with such names as “rice sticks” or “Chinese noodles”.

Particularly if you’ve made the effort to get to a specialty market, don’t be afraid to stock up. Dried noodles will last indefinitely, and frozen ones for many months, too.

Here’s a brief rundown of some of your options, a good number of which are gluten-free and vegan.

Egg noodles: McKinnon said she’s been surprised how often people conflate pasta with noodles, but these golden yellow noodles made with egg and wheat are one of the more similar Asian equivalents to the Italian staple. Find them fresh or dried, with a number of different names and sizes, including lo mein, chow mein and wonton (thick or thin). They have a nice chew to them. Egg noodles are very versatile and can go in soups and salads or be fried, McKinnon said.

Ramen noodles: Japan has made an art of these fresh, chewy wheat noodles served with broth and toppings. They can be sold fresh or frozen. Outside of a restaurant setting, many of us are familiar with the dorm-room-staple dried instant noodles of the same name, sold with flavouring packets and oil. But don’t swear them off.

You can follow the lead of McKinnon and many others by ditching the extras and just keeping the noodles to use in your own soups and broths. McKinnon said ramen noodles are great pan-fried, and Nguyen said some cold salads are made with them as well.

Rice noodles: The multitude of rice noodles alone can make your head spin. They range from thin, round vermicelli to wide, flat planks akin to pappardelle. They’re also very versatile, appearing in soups, salads and stir-fries. Nguyen said that rice noodles are neutral in flavour, meaning they can go either direction flavour-wise, from lighter broths all the way to bolder Thai dishes made with a rich coconut sauce. Don’t be alarmed if you see tapioca on the ingredients of rice noodles, which Nguyen said is added for stability, as they can be fragile in both dried and cooked forms. They’ll still be gluten-free and vegan either way.

Soba noodles: These thin, round noodles are made from gluten-free buckwheat, though some brands include wheat in the mix, which would render them unsuitable for those with gluten-free needs. McKinnon called soba “one of my favourite noodles of all time”. They’re great for cold salads, she said, and can fall apart more when served warm. Cool them in the fridge or an ice bath before using to help firm up the starches. Nguyen said buckwheat noodles absorb sauces well and, thanks to the somewhat nutty flavour, can hold their own against bold flavours, such as green onion.

Somen noodles: Don’t confuse these with soba or ramen. Somen are very thin (more akin to vermicelli), white and made of wheat. They’re vegan. While they’re traditionally served cold with a dashi dipping sauce, McKinnon uses them in soups as well.

Glass noodles: The term “glass noodles” can refer to two different noodles made with root starches, both of which are vegan and gluten-free. The type made with sweet potato starch may also be labelled as sweet potato noodles or Korean glass noodles, McKinnon said. They’re what you find in japchae, a Korean stir-fry. Mung bean vermicelli are made from mung bean starch, and McKinnon recommended them for salads, soups and braised dishes.

Glass noodles can serve as a filler in Vietnamese rolls, according to Nguyen. As you might guess, both types of noodles turn just about clear when cooked. They are sturdy with a robust chew and “absorb flavour like little sponges”, Nguyen said, noting that starch-based noodles tend to have a bouncier bite than wheat-based ones.

Udon noodles: These thick, white wheat noodles are often in soups, though McKinnon said they can be stir-fried, too. She recommended going for fresh noodles that are either frozen or vacuum-sealed. Dried, straight noodles labelled as udon “are not the real deal and will give you a very different finish.” Nguyen said she’s also had cold salads made with udon, with the wheat soaking up the sauce: “It totally worked.”

Wheat noodles: Simply made of wheat and water, these vegan noodles have “a springy texture and are a good ‘any occasion’ noodle that can be adapted to most dishes, particularly stir-fries or soups,” McKinnon wrote in the book. She added that they’re also a good substitute for recipes that may call for ramen noodles. Nguyen likes thicker wheat noodles pan-fried, too. Find wheat noodles fresh or dried.