On this late June day, my garden is flooded with magic afternoon light. My huge bundle of sage plants is crowned with purple flowers. I rub my hands through the herb as I pass by, and its earthy, pungent scent floats up. The mint has run amok, spreading down the stone stairs that lead to the basement. I walk nearby and its bright summery smells rise to greet me. The basil leaves are also starting to look promising and the thyme, which pours itself over a large stone, is spread with tiny purple flowers. The rosemary bush, with its green feathery spindly leaves, is looking healthier than ever.
It’s peak herb season — my very favorite time of year. My cooking feels so inspired when I know I can just pinch some thyme leaves out the kitchen door, or snip some sweet lemon verbena leaves and steep them in some iced tea. Or pull those feathery green rosemary leaves and season a roast chicken. The possibility of adding fresh, herbal flavor brings out the best in my summer cooking. Everything seems to taste so much fuller, larger, and better when fresh herbs are abundant. Whether you grow your own in a large garden or in small pots on your windowsill or buy them at a farmers market or a grocery store, make sure to use the freshest herbs you can find.
Here are three new recipes that are all herb-forward (“herbaceous” as chefs might say) as well as a guide to some of my favorite herbs.
A classic Caprese salad includes the ripest tomatoes, moist Buffalo mozzarella cheese and fresh basil leaves. (The salad also happens to mimic the colors of the Italian flag.) In my take on a Caprese salad, herbs are used in three different ways. First, cherry tomatoes are roasted with olive oil and basil until they soften and are almost bursting.
When they cool, they are placed on top of a bed of basil pesto, thin slices of mozzarella, and topped with a combination of fresh herbs. You can use any variety of herbs from your garden or farmer’s market; the more herbs you use the more interesting the textures and flavors of the salad. Try not to assemble the salad more than an hour ahead of time for the best texture. Warm crusty bread to soak up all the olive oil and tomato juices is a good idea.
The mozzarella, pesto and herbs
This summer sauce is ideal for the roasted cherry tomato and herb salad. It’s also a classic on pasta, or can be brushed on grilled seafood or meats. Pesto can be a dip or spread on crusty bread.
Classic pesto is made with green basil, pine nuts, grated Parmesan cheese and olive oil, pounded into a paste using a mortar and pestle. You can also prepare it in a food processor for a finer, more blended texture.
*If you want a nuttier flavor, toast the nuts in a dry skillet for four minutes.
This green herb sauce is my take on a classic chimichurri sauce. This one has garlic, parsley, cilantro, olive oil, crushed red pepper and lemon. It can also be served with grilled shrimp or fish, chicken, or as a dip for crackers and vegetables. Skirt steak, flat iron or flank steak is the ideal cut here; the meat is marinated and then grilled over a hot fire. It’s thinly sliced and topped with the pungent green herb sauce.
Farros is an ancient whole grain that is prized for its nutty flavor and chewy al dente texture. It pairs well with so many vegetables and herbs. I boil it until almost tender (you want it to still have a “bite”) and then toss it with chopped fresh dill, parsley, mint, and chives and stir with lemon juice and olive oil. Carrots are thinly sliced on the diagonal and roasted with thinly sliced leeks and tossed into the salad. The whole dish can be made hours ahead of time and served as a main course, or side dish. You can also get creative with this salad and add cubes of creamy feta cheese, toasted nuts, raisins, cherry tomatoes and other vegetables.
Serves 2 to 3 as main course and 4 to 6 as side dish.
The roasted carrots and leeks:
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