It’s been nearly two years since celebrated Melbourne chef and restaurateur Scott Pickett took the reins of longstanding Thai diner Longrain. But its upstairs bar and events space, Longsong, took a little longer to find its feet.

It recently reopened, quietly, after a culinary and aesthetic refresh. “We’ve worked with designers Anthology Studio to adapt the space to keep the amazing expansive and open feeling, [and] to be more versatile as a bar and also for events,” Pickett tells Broadsheet. “It’s cleverly done to feel like an intimate bar, but you never feel packed into a small space.”

The heritage-listed building’s exposed brick walls, wood panelling and lofty ceilings have been retained, referencing its history as an early 20th-century horse stable. So too have the bar’s signature hanging lanterns, an homage to the ones that light up during Thailand’s lantern festivals. But the once open room is now divided by thick velvet curtains, breaking the space up into a bar and three private dining areas (which can be booked separately or as a whole for events of up to 250 people). Sleek, wraparound banquettes are juxtaposed with tall tables just high enough to let you peek out the window onto the street.

“When people walk up the stairs from Longrain for the first time, they’re always taken aback,” says Pickett.

Under star chef David Moyle, Longsong’s menu wasn’t Thai-heavy. But it’s now pivoted to align with Longrain’s offering.

“What [people] wanted was an extension of Longrain,” says general manager Natasha Firman. “Someplace they could come to have the same style of food but in a more casual space.”

Food is snack-centric and always rotating, though there are few constants. Think mini fried egg nets filled with sour mango, green apple, caramelised coconut, tofu and peanuts; popcorn chicken with makrut-lime mayo; and prawn-topped betel leaf (it’s part of daily happy hour – from 5pm to 7pm – which includes a betel leaf and a wine or beer for $10.)

There are also a few wildcards. You might find a gado gado tart, which sees kipfler and sweet potatoes, rendang sauce and peanuts piled into a pastry shell; or Pickett’s take on a Thai hotdog, made with fermented pork and served with glass noodles and pickles.

Drinks have been designed to complement the complex flavours. “We work to balance sweet, salty, spicy and sour in all our dishes, so where we have a spicy dish, there’s always a sweeter cocktail to balance it out,” says Pickett. The signature Tea-licious blends rye, amaro, Thai tea and pandan, while the Soi 75 combines oaky reposado tequila with prosecco, galangal, coriander and chilli salt.

To go with your snacks and drinks, there are DJ sets from 6pm Thursday to Saturday.

Longsong Upstairs 44 Little Bourke Street, Melbourne

Hours: Wed to Sat 5pm–late