I lived in China for 15 amazing years, falling in love with the people, the culture and the food. Living there made it easy to hop onto planes and jet off to nearby places, such as Vietnam, Cambodia and Thailand.  The last was my favorite, for two initial reasons: Visas weren’t required and the modest costs fit my teacher’s budget.

As I kept returning to this land of smiles, making 12 trips in all, I found many more reasons to love it. Most were because of Koh Samui, the small, rocky island just a short flight from Bangkok. There, I found a favorite seaside resort that boasted the best in everything: Quietude, massage, wellness and — well, the most gorgeous, delectable food I’ve ever seen or tasted.

One early morning, a taxi picked me up to transport me to the tiny island airport, where I planned to catch a flight back to Bangkok. In the wee hours of the morning, before the sun rose, we came to a stop while a herd of 10 wild elephants plodded ahead of us. In the darkness, they seemed like moving mountains. The sheer force of their footsteps caused the ground to tremble, literally, and I found it unforgettably thrilling to share the morning with such gentle, hulking creatures.

And the food on Koh Samui. So fresh, perfectly seasoned and cheap. Drunken Noodles were one of my favorite dishes — at once sweet, salty and savory, as well as just a bit fatty and pleasingly acidic. I always found them both satisfying and refreshing on a long summer evening.

Now that I’ve returned to California, I have found it necessary to learn to make my own Thai dishes.  I don’t know how Drunken Noodles came to have their name, because they contain no alcohol. But I don’t think anybody will mind if I sip a glass of chilled Chardonnay while I cook them, especially in the summer. At least, it works for me.

Note: The list of ingredients may suggest a lengthy cooking time.  Fear not: From first chop to final sizzle should take only about 30 minutes.

6 teaspoons chili (bird’s eye chilis), thinly sliced (I order mine from Amazon; you might need to remove the seeds — they’re hot)

2½ pounds skinless, boneless chicken thighs, cut into strips

1 pound Chinese broccoli or bok choy

4 stalks green onions, thinly sliced

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