REVIEW: Tiger K offers Korean street food in a fun format in Duluth | Entertainment | gwinnettdailypost.com

2022-03-12 02:56:23 By : Ms. Lisa Li

Showers early with a steady rain developing overnight. The rain will be heavy at times. Low 32F. Winds ESE at less than 5 mph, becoming NNW and increasing to 15 to 25 mph. Chance of rain 100%. Rainfall near a half an inch. Higher wind gusts possible..

Showers early with a steady rain developing overnight. The rain will be heavy at times. Low 32F. Winds ESE at less than 5 mph, becoming NNW and increasing to 15 to 25 mph. Chance of rain 100%. Rainfall near a half an inch. Higher wind gusts possible.

Shown here are the so-tteok (crispy rice noodles with cocktail sausages) and the Korean fried chicken cupbob.

Tiger K Cupbob offers 20 versions of hotteok (ho dduk), a pancake with cinnamon, brown sugar and butter, served in a cup. This is the ice cream version.

Tiger K Cupbob offers fried chicken skewers in five flavors; this is the “fire” version, with cheese.

Tiger K Cupbob’s namesake dish is a fried-rice bowl with veggies, a fried egg and choice of toppings. Pictured here: the Korean fried chicken and pork bulgogi versions.

Tiger K Cupbob bakes the panko-crusted buns for its croquettes inhouse. The small sandwiches may be had with a variety of fillings (show here: meatball and spicy shrimp).

Shown here are the so-tteok (crispy rice noodles with cocktail sausages) and the Korean fried chicken cupbob.

Tiger K Cupbob offers 20 versions of hotteok (ho dduk), a pancake with cinnamon, brown sugar and butter, served in a cup. This is the ice cream version.

Tiger K Cupbob offers fried chicken skewers in five flavors; this is the “fire” version, with cheese.

Tiger K Cupbob’s namesake dish is a fried-rice bowl with veggies, a fried egg and choice of toppings. Pictured here: the Korean fried chicken and pork bulgogi versions.

Tiger K Cupbob bakes the panko-crusted buns for its croquettes inhouse. The small sandwiches may be had with a variety of fillings (show here: meatball and spicy shrimp).

EDITOR'S NOTE - Publication of this story is made possible through a Gwinnett Daily Post partnership with the AJC and FRESH TAKE Georgia, a digital news service focusing on issues of statewide, regional or national interest.

Christian Lee remembers eating the pancake hotteok as a kid in South Korea, where it basically came two ways — with cinnamon and sugar, or filled with japchae (glass noodles, usually made from sweet-potato starch). Whether sweet or savory, the popular street snack always was folded and tucked into a paper cup, for eating on the go.

“You pay 50 cents for one of those, and you are happy all day,” said Lee, 52, who holds a degree in mechanical engineering from Georgia Tech and owns a construction company.

Lee, who worked at Cafe Intermezzo while in college, estimates he’s built about 200 restaurants in the metro area.

The latest, his own Tiger K Cupbob in Duluth, pays tribute to the nostalgic bites of his youth. At Tiger K, you will find an expansive menu of fetching rice bowls, topped with a fried egg and everyday Korean fare (fried chicken, bulgogi, tofu); a dozen little hand-held sandwiches stuffed with the same (plus potato salad, meatballs, tuna melt and more); and a dazzling assortment of hotteok (ho dduk on the menu), filled with Nutella, ice cream, fruit, corn flakes, chicken tenders, hot dogs, panko-fried shrimp and so on.

Those Instagramable pancakes in a cup are reason enough for a visit.

Another choice is cupbob, a filling $10 meal that caters to the current everything-is-better-in-a-bowl trend. (Just add veggies, an egg and an umami-laced sauce or two.) Tiger K’s fried-rice bowls are more of the meat-and-starch variety than the salad-and-super-grain kind, but I wouldn’t take points off for that. I’ve never had one that was anything less than satisfying.

Another point of clarification: Although Tiger K advertises Korean fried chicken — with an emphasis on “hot!” on its website — it is not a traditional Korean fried chicken joint, where baskets of deep-fried, bone-in bird take a starring role, and cold beer is mandatory. There is a so-called “fire” heat level (in a sandwich or threaded on a skewer), but the mainstay here are boneless chunks of batter-fried chicken. Choose between a spicy glaze that carries a gentle kick, and a middle-of-the-road KFC treatment that’s sweet and tangy — but not very much of either. It’s hard to say which I liked better — they were all good — but getting a fiery chicken stick buried under a heavy blanket of stringy cheese was a bit of a wash.

The aforementioned $5-$6 sandwiches (labeled croquettes) are less appealing than the bowls. Lee told me the panko-topped buns are baked in-house, but the chewy, doughy, slightly sweet crumb wasn’t my thing. However, the fillings — we tried meatball and spicy shrimp — made the croquettes worth a bite or three.

I enjoyed the skewers of so-tteok so-tteok (here called ”so dduk so dduk”), more for the gochujang-brushed cocktail weenies than the aggressively crispy fried rice cakes that share the stick. If you don’t know this little nibble, you might try it, just for fun.

When it comes to a pancake in a cup, however, let there be no hesitation. You have 20 options. All except the savory japchae (which I love) are made the traditional way, with cinnamon, butter and brown sugar. This means your hash brown- and beef frank-stuffed options are going to come with a powerful blast of sweetness. I realized this when I bit into the panko-shrimp hotteok. Joke’s on me! On another stop, we loved the Nutella-strawberry combo, and an over-the-top preparation with a mini ice cream sandwich, whipped cream and crushed Oreos.

Calorie-laden kiddie food? You bet. Count me in.

Wendell Brock is a James Beard Award-winning food and culture writer. He was an AJC staff writer, editor, and critic from 1982-2009.

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Food: fast-casual Korean street food

Best dishes: spicy chicken and Korean fried chicken cupbob; japchae, ice cream and strawberry-Nutella hotteok

Vegetarian selections: crispy tofu and cupbokki cupbob; vegetable, japchae and potato salad croquettes; many of the hotteok; veggie fried rice; fried tofu side

COVID-19 safety: vaccines, masks mandatory for staff; masks optional for guests

Credit cards: all major credit cards accepted

Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays and Sundays; 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays

Takeout: yes, order by phone or via restaurant website; delivery available via Seamless, Grubhub and DoorDash

Address, phone: 3675 Satellite Blvd., Duluth; 678-580-5284

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