Kate Sears for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Barrett Washburne.

While this dish is named for Singapore, it was not created there. Many believe it was invented in Hong Kong, in the 1950s or 1960s, by chefs seeking to add a different flavor profile to Cantonese dishes. It is now a much loved dish at cha chaan tengs, a type of cafe in Hong Kong, and at Cantonese eateries across the world. The original features meat, eggs and vegetables, but this vegetarian version showcases charred scallions, which add sweetness. Peppers are often included, but you could use carrots, cabbage, cauliflower or any thinly sliced vegetable that can be cooked in 3 to 4 minutes. The technique of “blooming” the curry powder in the oil ensures that the vermicelli is silky rather than gritty. Use a curry powder that has turmeric listed as one of the first ingredients, as it lends a lovely golden color to the noodles. (You can add ½ teaspoon of turmeric powder to a commercial curry powder if you want to ensure a bright hue.)

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