Andrew Scrivani for The New York Times

Glass noodles readily soak up their surrounding seasonings — and this dish delivers a smack of umami with curry powder, soy sauce, sesame oil and fresh ginger. Also known as bean thread noodles or cellophane noodles, gluten-free glass noodles are often combined with vegetables and used as a filling for dumplings or spring rolls, or added to soups, braised dishes or stir-fries for heft. Here, the transparent threads are tossed with curry-spiced Napa cabbage and dried shiitake mushrooms, which have more complex, earthy notes than fresh. Bright cilantro and ginger round out the dish, which is equally good warm or at room temperature.

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